Ka Wai Ola - Office of Hawaiian Affairs, Volume 7, Number 4, 1 April 1990 — Hana hou for 'All Hawaiian Cook Book' [ARTICLE]

Hana hou for 'All Hawaiian Cook Book'

By Deborah L. Ward With her second cookbook "F Ho'olako Mau," just published in January, author Tamar Luke Pane'e continues to enrich our knowledge of cooking in old Hawai'i, then and now. In publishing her long-awaited volume one this year (she published volume two first, in Dec. 1987) Pane'e has completed the two volumes she planned and executed with the kokua of friends and family. Volume two featured an equally fascinating collection of typical Hawaiian recipes and stories, in chapters titled poi bowl, calabash, oeean treasures, poke, and from the ranch. The focus of this excellent new book, with its colorful cover featuring the royal coat of arms of the Hawaiian kingdom, is cooking for a "pa'ina"or "'aha'aina" (feast), the correct terms to use instead of the commonly used word lu'au, whieh aetually means young taro tops (leaves). More than just a cookbook, "E Ho'olako Mau," shares knowledge of a Hawaiian lifestyle, simple but unique. As Pane'e writes, "The intent of this book is to share traditions, customs, knowledge and recipes from a by-gone era." It is her way of sharing her memories, and those of her friends, of a cherished childhood lifestyle long gone. The book goes into some detail on how to prepare for the various aspects of an 'aha'aina, from the planning a year in advance to the step-by-step preparation of the imu (earth oven), fish, he'e (octopus), 'opae (shrimp) and other dishes. Illustrations are by David Paul Parker and Brook Kapukuniahi Parker and the cover design is by David Paul Parker. Recipes have been handed down and some altered to suit modern-day lifestyles. As in the earlier volume two, the author leaves room in the pages for the reader to record their own recipes and family tradition for preparing a dish. A glossary defines the Hawaiian and technical cooking terms for various foods. Chapter 1 of the newest "E Hoolako Mau" des-

cribes various cooking methods: baking (kalua); broiling (ko'ala, kunu, pulehu, palaha, 'olala, lawalu), and steaming (hakui and puholo). Chapter 2 cover the imu: selecting a site, itsdimensions, setting up and lighting the imu, about types of wahie (firewood), pohaku (stones), covering. uncovering and cleaning the imu, It includes imu traditions in using banana stalks, ti, 'eke huluhulu (burlap bags), kapolena (canvas, whieh replaced the moena, or lauhala mat). Chapter 3 is about preparing the pua'a (pig) from how to select and slaughter it to preparing it for cooking and serving. This chapter also offers easy family-size recipes for oven and microwave kalua pua'a. Chapter 4 covers preparation of traditional and modern laulau. Recipes are included too for beef tongue and turkey tail laulau, and for usingbutterfish (black cod).

Other chapters cover cooking with lu'au, lawalu i'a (fish wrapped in ti leaves and broiled over coals), long rice, and he'e (octopus). A lengthy section on condiments tells how to make, among other goodies, ehili pepper water, pickled onion, dried aku and he'e, smoked meats, taro patties, dishes with pua kalo (taro flower), and 'ulu (breadfruit). Author Panee also includes a generous section on feeding the workers for the 'aha'aina, with recipes for na'au pua'a, ehieken and pork adobo, teriyaki ehieken, pickled haha (lu'au stems), sweet-sour pig's feet, ham hoek bean soup, ham and turkey jook (rice soup) and pig's feet soup. Copies of "E Ho'olako Mau" Vol. 1 or 2 may be ordered directly from Tamar Luke Pane'e at P.O. Box 291, Kane'ohe, Hawai'i, 96744. Thecost is$10 per volume plus $2 per book for postage and handling. Check or money order is acceptable. Buyers should allow four to six weeks for delivery.