Ka Wai Ola - Office of Hawaiian Affairs, Volume 40, Number 10, 1 October 2023 — Papahānaumokuākea: A School for Voyaging [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

Papahānaumokuākea: A School for Voyaging

V HANOHANO NA 'AINA KUPUNA V ^ HONORING PAPAHĀNAUMOKUĀKEA AS KŪPUNA ISLANDS *

By Haunani Kane, Ph.ū. As a young voyager and navigator, you are introduced to different schools by your kumu - places you go to study and build your skills. Often, we start from land. For those of us from O'ahu we may hike up Makapu'u to study the swells, and head to Lāna'i lookout to heeome familiar with Newe (also known as Hānaiakamālama or the Southern Cross). We eaeh have our favorite spots to watch the stars as they first puka above the horizon in the east and return in the west. These places are special. After countless hours of quietly staring, learning, and memorizing patterns you begin to build pilina (relationships) with these places and generations of teachers and students. One of these special schools is Papahānaumokuākea. As you prepare for a deep-sea voyage you need to learn how to "see" a faraway island from the middle of the oeean. Sailing to Papahānaumokuākea teaches us the clues of an approaching island - how to feel changes in the open oeean swells, distinguish the patterns of seabirds from those that live on land, and begin to recognize

the subtle characteristics of low-lying islands as they grow above the horizon. Nīhoa, the closest of our ancestral islands, is located approximately 120 miles northwest of Ni'ihau. With steady winds you ean make this trip in about 24 hours. Nainoa [Thompson] compares finding Nīhoa to trying to see Mānana island (Rabbit Island off Waimānalo, O'ahu), from the Kona coast of Hawai'i island. It is close enough to paddle and far enough away to experience all the feelings of being on an open oeean voyage. Our voyage to Nīhoa begins off the coast of Ni'ihau. We align the back of the wa'a (eanoe) with Pāmau, the highest mountain (approximately 1,200 ft) on Ni'ihau and sail slightly north of the setting sun. On a clear night, Kūmau (also known as Hōkūpa'a or the north star) will sit on the right side of the eanoe, slightly forward of the back beam. Kūmau is your best friend on this voyage. The young navigator and crew will learn to feel the swells and wind, how to keep track of speed and distance, and how to eommunicate and guide their crew. Most importantly, this voyage will teach generations of voyagers how to lead and work together as an 'ohana. After 24 hours of being awake, slightly groggy eyes will witness for the first time a jagged, hazy island emerge from the sea. They will greet her like they would their most cherished kupuna with mele, oli, and possibly lei, pōhaku, pa'akai or wai from their homes. For those of us who have made the voyage to Papahānaumokuākea we all agree that this experience has had an everlasting impact on our lives. We have a collective dream to normalize voyages on wa'a to Nīhoa and beyond. Imagine offshore of Nīhoa or within the lagoon of Lalo - Hōkūle'a, Hikianalia, Makali'i, Namahoe, and Mo'okiha o Pi'ilani - a fleet of voyaging canoes, their students and the generations before and after. ■ Guest author Haunani Kane, Ph.D., is a scientist, surfer, and voyager from Kailua, O'ahu. Currently an assistant professor at the University of Hawai'i at Mānoa, Haunani's life is guided by the values and storied history ofherkūpuna ( ancestors ).

Hikianalia in front of Nīfioo's poli. - Phoio: 'Āina Paikai

Nīhoo from the deck of Hikionolio. - Phoio: Brad Ka'aleleo Wong